![]() There's no cracks or splits in the housing, the back cover was firmly in place. These two pieces were just laying loose in the cover, which seemed sloppy for OEM (and the pink hues are odd)? I don't know if you guys are familiar enough just to tell by the harness. What I can't tell is if they are aftermarket units? I didn't think they would be since my VIN Decodes with: 522-Xenon-Light / Xenon-licht. Here's the classic moisture in headlight shot: I believe I have stock lights (see below), but I'm getting the dreaded Adaptive Headlight warning and the actual headlight is out: I'm been reading a ton of threads here but they seem to deal mostly with aftermarket lights and bad seals. Date: ) knowing that there was an issue with the adaptive headlights (cost to fix was negotiated in). This will take a bit of patience (remember, expensive light) but you can do it.I just picked up a 2011 135i m-sport (Prod. Ensure no sensitive ears are around, swear as loudly as you like while you maneuver the light back into position and tighten the screws. Re-connect the two electricals, turn lights on to ensure everything works before re-installation.ħ. Re-install the two rubber drain tubes, screw the lowbeam access cover back on.Ħ. Put a light cover of silicate on the rubber.ĥ. Look at the rubber seal, verify that it's not pinched anywhere. Be patient in this part of the procedure, and BE GENTLE with your $500 light!Ĥ. When you get the right orientation, you'll see the effect of the air and your "twisting" that will move the moisture down the eyebrow and the moisture will blow itself through one of the drain holes. Take your air compressor, set the air pressure on a low pressure (about 40-50PSI should do it) and blow air into the drain tube access holes and the lowbeam holes while turning the light over to drain and blow out the condensate. Remove both rubber drain tubes and pull out the stupid mesh thingies, and unscrew and remove the lowbeam light access cover.ģ. It makes a difference on re-installation.Ģ. The two upper screws are of different lengths, so remember which screw goes to which hole. The two upper screws, you'll have to fully remove. DO NOT fully remove the two rear/lower screws, they are "capture screws" meaning that you only need to loosen them. ![]() Remove the headlight (WITHOUT taking the bumper off, there are great youtube videos that demonstrate how to do this, takes a little wiggling but it's pretty easy), disconnect the two electrical connectors, and put the headlight on your bench. ![]() Free fix! You can do this in about 30 minutes:ġ. ![]()
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